Sunday, June 29, 2014

Cluny 28, 29 June


We stopped for two nights in the lovely town of Cluny, famous for it's huge Benedictine Abbey, founded in 910. The Abbey was built in Romanesque style and was the wealthy leader of western monasticism for many years, heading up 1,100 monasteries and priories all over Europe. It was a major spiritual and intellectual centre in the Middle Ages. Many of it's buildings were destroyed in 1791 during the French Revolution. What a shame.

 

The height of the vaulting is amazing, as was the length of the nave.

Some detail of the original sculpture. 

The 18th century cloisters were built over the original Roman cloisters.

A remaining 13th century building, probably the flour store.

Abbot Jean De Bourbon's 15th century palace.
 
 

The house for the guests of the abbot.

The Fabry Tower is part of the Abbey's fortifications.

Our hotel, Hotel de Bourgogne, was built along the wall of the original nave of the Abbey.

As well as a view of the Abbey, our hotel room also over looked the National Horse Stud Farm.

Along the streets of the medieval town that grew to service the Abbey.

This time Joy tries snails, a speciality of the area. Also delicious.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Saturday, June 28, 2014

Riding on in Burgundy Cagny 26 June, Givry 27 June

Next day we left our hotel, an historic Coaching Inn, in Baune and cycled off again. The landscape varried from grape vines to forests to flat fields of wheat and also hilly spots.

We started with more vines and lots of cutsie villages to ride through.


A glimpse of a typical winery.
 
 

The route is well signed posted. These are the signs we have been following.

Fountain outside the Marie at Meursault.

We stopped for lunch there.

It was handy having the high vis vests, you could pick us miles away (kilometres away just doesn't have the same ring). 

Lots of lavoirs to be spotted. This one is particularly mercky. Decided to save our washing until later.

We saw lots of these tractors trimming the vines along the route.

Santenay. What a street!

What a bridge! The French are amazing with their flowers everywhere.

We rode along a canel for a while.

Our hotel that night at Chassey le Camp.

Curious creatures along the track next day.

Rolling hills and wheat fields.

Our first sun flowers.

The highlight of this day’s ride was Germolles, a palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, built in 1380 by Philippe the Bold. This is the best preserved country estate of the Dukes in France. We were lucky enough to be shown around by one of the owners who was a fascinating and very informative guide.

The cellars.

Resting in the gardens.

That nights accommodation was at a beautiful hotel/B&B outside Givry, called Moulin Madame.

We kid you not, this is the French maid clearing up after breakfast.

On the third day we started following the Voie Verte, an old railway line. It was raining and sunny off and on all day.

We had lunch in a lovely medieval town Saint Gengoux le National.
 
 
 What an amazing Medieval door.
 
 

Joy tried frogs legs for lunch. Delicious!

 

Next stop, the exuberant Chateau de Cormatin, built between 1606 and 1625.

 

There are 12 hectares of French Baroque gardens beyond the moat.

 

Amazing opulence inside.

 

The ornate ceilings were carved and painted.
 
 

The out houses with an excellent kitchen garden at the back.

Well it had to happen sometime! Between Cormartin and our destination, Cluny, we were caught in a hail storm. Ouch!!!

 

 

Friday, June 27, 2014

Beaune 24, 25 June


Beaune is a beautiful medieval French town, so we spent two nights there to have a good look around. It is the historic capital of the Burgundy wine trade.  Also lucky, because Joy was unwell for a bit.

 

The Collegiale Notre-Dame is a 1120 Burgundian Romanesque church with a Gothic front porch.

 

Inside the church.

 

The highlight, and one of the most interesting places we have seen in Europe is the Gothic Hospices de Beaune. It was built in the 1443 to look after Beaune's poor and sick by Nicholas Roland who wanted to end his life on a philanthropic note. It functioned as a hospital until 1971. The outside is relatively plain so as not to attract britgands.

 
Inside the courtyard. The dazzling roof still has it's original varnished tiles.

 

The other end of the courtyard. The sun on the roof is so beautiful.

Listening to the audio guide.

 

This is the massive and beautiful public ward, the Salle des Pauvres, or room of the poor. They actually only had 30 beds in here.

 

The painted broken-barrel timber vaulted ceiling.

 

Dragon heads are carved at the end of all the beams. There are also carvings of peasant's heads.

 

More detail of the ceiling.

 

Painting of a nun administering to a little girl.

 

The chapel at the end of the ward.

 

One of the treasures in the chapel.

 

Even the kitchen fixtures were fancy. Note the swan taps.

 

 

Another highlight in the hospice is the famous masterpiece by 15th century Flemish painter Rogier van der Weyden depicting The Last Judgement. Note the tortured souls going to hell on the right.